Fishing Fanatics

BASIC LINE AND TACKLE SELECTION

Now that we have a good solid rod and reel it's time to spool up our reel with line and take stock of what's in our tackle box to ensure we have most of the bases covered that we might encounter now that we've decided to move up to the "next level".

There are all kinds of choices available when it comes to selecting line depending on the species you fish, type of structure, water clarity, lure type etc.

Remember, the angler we're targeting now is the one that has decided to move beyond the beginner or novice stage and has picked a spinning rod and reel outfit that will fit a number of different applications such as jigging, casting or trolling for walleyes, bass and trout, live bait fishing for multiple species including panfish and perch.

Even being able to handle mid-sized catfish and pike. To effectively handle a variety of applications such as this I would recommend a high quality, 8 pound test monofilament line.

If you have a spare spool with your reel you might want to load it up with 6 pound test mono for smaller fish and/or very clear water situations.

In a future blog we will address selecting equipment for the angler who has decided to concentrate on one species or a certain type of angling.

That's when we'll get into using specialty lines such as braided and flourocarbon. Now that we're "spooled up" let's take an inventory of what's in our tackle box and fill in the areas that will allow us to put a reasonable selection in front of that varied selection of species.

• Live Bait Rig... 2 or 3 sizes of live bait hooks, split shot and floats (both fixed and slip floats). All of this should cost less than $20. Don't hesitate to ask your tackle shop how to rig this if you're not certain.

• Selection of Jigheads and Curlytail Grubs... 1/8 and 1/4 ounce round heads will handle most applications. Jig them with or without live bait or swim them slowly close to bottom. I also like a darter head with a 3" natural colored grub for bass. Again, less than $20 .

• Crankbaits....start with 4 or 5 crankbaits. Get a couple that run 5-7 feet a couple more that run 8-12 feet and one that runs deeper. Get a bright color, such as firetiger for stained or dirty water and a natural color such as shad for clear water. A Rapala shad rap is a good choice although I would get one of my shallower selections in a style designed for jerking. 5 good quality crankbaits will cost $40 -$50.

• Topwater Lures ... 2 is enough. Get one popper style and one rubber frog. $12 for the pair should do it.

• In-line Spinners.... such as Mepps, Blue Fox etc. Get 2 or 3, 1/4 and 1/8 ounce, plain and dressed with feather. Less than $20. * Terminal Tackle... small to medium sized swivels for use with the in-line spinners and crankbaits (don't use them with jigs, topwater or live bait rig). Leaders, only if you're fishing for "toothy critters". Less than $10.

I know I've probably left out a few of your favorites but I'm trying to arrive at the "must haves" from my perspective.

Come on into the store and let's talk about it !

Have you already got "the itch" ?

Just starting out? Not sure what gear you need? Read my post on Getting started

Baitcasters Are Not The "REELS FROM HELL"

I often get Anglers in the store that have either had a bad initial experience with Baitcast Reels or have been warned by friends to "stay away at all costs" !

 

It's interesting that in the southern states, mostly because of the type of waters they fish most anglers use baitcast equipment. It's common for a southerner to look at spinning gear as only appropriate for small fish, calling them "yankee sticks". This has changed a lot recently with the advent of finesse fishing, drop shotting and the like, emerging on the pro Bass Tours. 

 

The first question is, "why do I need a baitcast outfit" ?

 

The most common application is for fishing moderate to heavy cover to give one the cranking power to get the fish quickly out of weeds,pads, wood etc.. The other related reason is that they handle heavier lures much better than spinning gear. Medium to heavy crankbaits, spinnerbaits, flipping jigs, heavily weighted presentations such as Carolina rigs are all good applications for a baitcaster.

 

As for casting you will hear differing opinions but casting distances for both spinning and casting are comparable with spinning gear usually being more accurate. Recently manufacturers have been making baitcast reels smaller without compromising cranking power so you will see more anglers using them for finesse type applications such as working tubes and grubs.

One of my favorite applications to use a baitcaster is topwater baits. I feel like I get a better response when I'm "walking the dog" with a topwater lure.

 

The next question is, "how do I not get so many backlashes with baitcast gear" ?

 

Number one is that you will definitely get better with practice. The learning curve is very steep !

 

Next is (and this isn't a sales pitch) , do not get a cheap baitcast reel !  You certainly don't need to get the most expensive either but plan on spending at least $150 on a baitcast reel. The relative performance of baitcast reels is much more evident as you move up in quality than in spinning equipment.. It's interesting that the more inexpensive baitcast reels are probably more effective in the hands of an angler experienced in using them than a beginner.

 

Three tips that in my opinion will make the difference in hating them or getting addicted to them are, always adjust the spool tension (generally the round knob on the side of the reel) when you change the weight of your presentation. To do this you simply push the spool release bar, the lure should fall at a moderate speed and when it hits the ground the spool should stop turning. If it keeps turning and feeds excess line tighten up the tension knob. If the lure drops very slowly or not at all, loosen off the tension knob as it will reduce your casting distance. You should also tighten up the tension knob when you're casting into the wind. The next tip is, regardless of how well your reel is adjusted always "thumb" the spool just before your bait hits the water. The last tip is going to sound familar to golfers and ball players, "don't try to kill it". In other words don't try to make that mile long cast. It will very often result in a nasty backlash.

 

Once you catch on to using a baitcast outfit you will look for excuses to use it. For some reason I feel like I'm in more direct contact with my lure when I'm using a baitcaster.

 

When you're ready to take the "plunge" come into the store and we'll go through some options with you until you're comfortable with a "fit".

 

Until next time....WHEN IN DOUBT...SET THE HOOK !!!!!

Just starting out? Not sure what gear you need? Read my post on Getting started

Getting Started

One of the situations that presents itself frequently at the store is the new or novice angler with questions about how to get started. A typical scenario is the new angler who has a low end rod/reel combo usually bought for less than $50 who now wants to get a little more serious and purchase a rod and reel at the "next" level.

First of all let's review what moving up to the "next" level buys you. In a rod you will generally be moving from a low graphite or high fiberglass content to a rod with a higher level of graphite. The higher graphite level will most often get you a lighter and more sensitive rod.

The more sensitive the rod the easier it is to detect a bite. You should keep in mind however that the higher the graphite content is the more fragile the rod will be so if the new angler is a youngster who tends to be a little tough on his/her equipment you might be better to stick with a rod with more fiberglass content.

Next let's consider whether to go with a one or two piece rod and what length might be appropriate. One piece rods are almost always more sensitive than two piece rods so if you don't have an issue with storage or transporting  the longer rod go with the one piece. 

For most applications I would suggest a 6.5 or 7.0 foot rod. In most situations a shorter rod will afford more casting accuracy while a longer rod will provide longer casting distances and more leverage to aid landing your fish.

You can buy a good, quality graphite rod with a solid warranty from 5yrs to lifetime for $70 to $100.

Now let's move on to a reel. The vast majority of new anglers use spinning reels so that's what we'll concentrate on. The two most important attributes I look for are a light reel with a smooth drag
 system. The drag system controls how smoothly line is pulled from the reel when you're fighting a fish. A poor quality drag system will cause the line to come off in a "jerky" fashion which often results in break offs and lost fish. Some anglers equate a smooth drag system with a high bearing count.

A high bearing count can mean a smooth drag but the positioning and quality of bearings is a huge consideration. There are those that contend that an inexpensive reel with a very high bearing count i.e 7 to 10 is a poor choice because the bearings will be poor quality and will cause reliability problems. There is no pat answer to the "bearing count" issue.

One feature that most spinning reels made in the last 5 years have and is a must in my opinion is instant anti-reverse. This simply means the spool does not move backwards regardless of where you are in the rotation cycle.

This provides instant hooksets. The other signifigant consideration is spool capacity, in other words how much line does the reel hold of the pound test line you normally use ? If you use 8 lb. test line and primarily cast for fish you'll be fine with 80 yards of line but if you also want to troll you might want to get a reel with spool capacity of at least 120 yards.

Many anglers are very concerned about whether the reel comes with a spare spool. A spare spool is way down the priority list for me because I very rarely use them but I definitely can understand that in some situations they would be very useful.

Where does that leave us on the question of reels ?  My personal opinion when moving to the "next level" is that you should be looking for a reel in the $75 to $120 range with instant anti-reverse and at least 7 bearings.

Match up the rod and reel before you buy it and make sure it's comfortable and feels balanced in your hand.

Lastly, a question I get a lot is whether it's more important to get a good quality rod or reel.

From the standpoint of the performance they provide I have a hard time picking one over the other but my answer is the reel because it has more moving parts and potentially represents a larger potential for reliability problems especially since the warranty on rods is generally much longer than on reels.

I hope this information is useful to you. Make sure you drop into the store and we'll spend as much time with you as necessary to make you comfortable with your choice.

All the best to you and your family over the holidays and into the New Year !